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Re: Large Hole Repair [message #6090 is a reply to message #6068] Sun, 10 March 2013 09:13 Go to previous message
Soldierant is currently offline  Soldierant
Messages: 1
Registered: March 2013
Location: Australia
Junior Member

Just a fill in for repairs of large holes or seam cracks. I have sourced from a number of musical instrument repairers of wood instruments that a fill can be either a solid of timber that is preferably the same density or material to the area of repair or for more refined and detailed repairs, you can build a wall using 'carbon fiber matting' and 'carbon fiber tape' to reinforce (see WWW below). Both these process uses a resin and hardener in 2 part epoxy gluing which dries rock hard and is extremely resistant to any damage including water. Unfortunately the timbre of the instrument might change in either of these cases if not used correctly. Carbon Fiber is being used in musical instrument repair because it is flexible and its resonance is predictable for surface repair application which applies to holes, dints and completely broken instruments like the neck of a guitar.

If the seam or cracking is accessible from the inside of your Didgeridoo, you can use ground up sawdust - Use a mortar a pestle with the desired sawdust - preferably a hardwood and mix the fines with a small amount of PVA glue to make a dough like putty. Push this into the creases of the seam that has opened up. Let it dry out completely before playing. You can clean off excess with a damp paper towel before it dries out saving you the problem of sanding and finishing if you want is to be smooth. If it is close to the top opening of the instrument you should finish over it with beeswax after it is dry, to protect it from moisture in that area. This process it the least expensive and easily done by anyone. You don't need any experience in woodwork, just follow my directions and visit your local hardware. Sawdust can be bought but I'd suggest getting a saw and cut your own fines - not from the instrument.

If the exterior has been finished with an epoxy, you should use a resin based filler like 'car repair bog'. If you want a clear finish, that is also possible by using a clear resin filler which is bought from hobby supplies or online (http://www.carbonfiber.com.au/category7_1.htm). West Product is a glass fiber for epoxy coatings like on boats but is designed for repairs to timber as well. The strength of this material is far superior to PVA application.

The exterior of your Didjeridoo should be maintained as best possible when doing repair work or filling a hole. I'd suggest you try to patch from the inside but if that is not possible and you have artwork or carving on the outside, I would consider the least intrusive process of surface disturbance so that authenticity is maintained - meaning the artwork/exterior and timbre of the instrument is not being altered noticeably. The later epoxy process using only clear 207 resin finish without filler will seep into cracks in a honey like consistency and blends well with any resin finish in high gloss. A little fine sanding with 4000 Grade sand paper will bring it back to Satin or Matt finish if required.

To control the use of clear epoxy processes make a few batches to test consistency before applying. Use a paddle-pop stick to gather enough resin from the mixing pot and transfer it to the area affected allowing the resin to literally pour in a thin drizzle from the end of the stick into and along the crack. Don't, or try not to touch the surface with the stick or spread push the resin around with the stick. You will only make a mess and it is a sticky product that attracts/transfers dust particles including finger smudges easily.

Clean up of epoxy requires either - and you must consider this before starting - sanding after it is cured or finishing prior to cure. This means that whatever the period of cure time you have chosen using the directions for mixing, you can to some degree use a plastic spatula to spread or push the epoxy into the desired shape depending upon the density of the mixture and the finish desired. However - there is no undo or cleaner/thinners for this product so it is not used by many people without some experience or training. You should seek maybe a car repairer for advice on product types available to you and for this type of work they would be as good alternative to a music instrument repairer if you don't want to do it yourself.

Note that a clear resin will finish clear and is least noticeable if at all left untouched. The process does not require any other finishing in most cases if the resin is allowed to spread evenly to a natural smooth finish.

Any process using resin epoxy should be done using rubber dish-washing kitchen gloves in still conditions but using some ventilation as these materials can cause respiratory and skin ailments. If using any epoxy or resin based product - for your own health alone - follow the directions for safe use appropriately and the results should prove worthwhile for you and the instrument.
 
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